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July 2004


Lilo’s Westside Café, Seligman, Arizona (west’gt of Flagstaff)
Your regular diner, old time celebrity posters, old kitchen utensils nailed to the walls, photo of old Seligman main street with lights poked through the paper. Good food, the waitress makes fun of their new vegie burgers. Don’t get the crinkle fries, they cost more and they’re frozen from the bag, whereas the unnamed regular fries are robust, thick sliced into the grease skin and all.

Cherokee Diner, Oklahoma, Wednesday night 7/21; late night, we’re cashed, stumble into the large truckstop eatery, lured by the promise of Navajo Tacos and the fact that it’s open. Disappointing Navajo tacos, prepared by white folks who stole the Cherokee name once again for their diner. Then the world’s noisiest vacuum cleaner kicked in, circling our table. Paul L.’s childhood vacuum cleaner trauma kicked in, but he retreated into his inner mind and eventually the vacuuming stopped. We sought shelter for the night, down I-40, us and the big rigs, reading the signs and portents.Thursday morning, July 22, Well, we kept driving and driving, and by Thurday morning we knew we were in a bit of trouble, our ambitious plan to cross the country in three days a bit optimistic. We have to be in Charlotte noon tomorrow, and we’re only still in Oklahoma.

Checked out of the very funky Motel 6 in Shawnee, jumped on I-40, conveniently close to Motel 6. Drove and drove, trying to figure out how to deal with the looming sleep deprivation.

Crossing into Arkansas, and leaving the Cherokee Nation. A mysterious tower climbs from dense hilly woods. It’s probably a cell phone tower. The building of the cell phone tower network is an unheralded giant construction project, the goal being to pick up cell phone signals from the remotest valley in this great land. The Cingular map shows vast stretches of America, mostly the western states, where your cell phone will not work. Red blotches of in service zones cling to the interstates in the still wild west, and the east coast is a solid sea of microwave communication redWAFFLE HOUSE SIGHTING, JUST OVER THE ARKANSAS BORDER!!! How fast it all turns around. If only the Donner Party had stuck to the Interstate. GAS IS $1.36 A GALLON?!! Oops, no, old sign on a shut down station. That’s all right, cause we’re in the Waffle House Parking lot. Paul M. is so excited that he’s circling twice.

Everyone in the Waffle House is looking at us as we circle for the third time. It’s not easy parking this beast. Remind us to tell the tale of the urine bottle.Waffle House was good. Very good. If they ever broke out in California, they’d spread like kudzu. Starbucks and Waffle House. Green and black and red and yellow, the new national colors.

2 hours later: Arkansas is looking good. More variety in the vertical dimension, and green, green, green, trees, fields, medians. Waffle house was very good, very secure in the top spot of the Hawks Corporate Eating chart. Good coffee n breakfast. Rob Waller’s plan for privatizing the War on Terror: oh, never mind.

The radio is cutting in and out:”John Edwards and I
Have the vision
to literally rebuild”
“Kerry and his entourage spent the evening in a suburban hotel outside of
“I believe we have to do more to give young people hope and a . . .
Let me tell you now, ladies and gentlemen, we need now, more than ever
To stand up and listen to every voice that speaks truth to power”

Time to switch to the CD library.


We have 22 hours to get to a radio station in Charlotte, NC. We’re a little behind schedule, but we’re not sleep deprived. Tomorrow could be a different story.

We’ve crossed over into Humid America, where your clothes never quite dry out and you wonder how people lived without AC.What river was that? We’re in green, green Oklahoma, contented cows in green fields, silos, woods, not forests. Crossed a big river on a big bridge, could have been the South Canadian River, driver Paul M says we’re low on gas, should make it to Ft. Smith, Arkansas, 38 miles away. It was the Arkansas River. Big river.

We have seen many combo names on our trip, a la Texarkanada: Arkhola Cement Co on a big truck, towns of Texoma, and, uh, the others. We’re really hungry, but holding out for a Waffle House. Smothered potatoes, raisin toast, simple, honest architecture, a tall sign reaching out like a beacon in a green Oklahoma sea. I have a serious aversion to grits, always have, but I’m going to try Rob’s heavy dousing with Tabasco.

Eastern Oklahoma I-40 is devoid of food stops. We are so hungry that we’re going to write about food:—–


Our first run-in with the law is behind us. We were pulled over doing 81 in a 70 zone. Pretty lame ticket. PL was at the wheel. The cop was pretty cool though. He wasn’t condescending or power tripping. He called PL “sir”, PL called him “sir,” the ticket was written, PL was told to telephone Judge Hinton in the morning. Here’s his phone and address if you’d like to contact him for any reason:
Hon. W. B. Hinson
Pct. 1 (806) 248- 7444
P.O. Box 43
Groom, TX

Then off we went. It was very civilized. Thank God, no shakedown. The sun is about to set here in Texas just east of Amarillo. The night speed limit is 65. PL winds it down to 74. We all agree that less than 10 mph above the limit is cool. Hope we’re right.


“Nasty split.”
“Oh, shit.”
PM is bowling on his cell phone now. PL wonders if they have x-rated cell phones. PM thinks probably in Japan. I think he’s right.


Paul Marshall is trying out the rings on his new phone. He’s really running them through the paces, letting the whole melody play out, waiting until the groove kicks in. They’re almost all disco tunes these days. I hope he picks a good disco ring. That’d be great. Not the circusy shit. Those freak me out. The next ring is called “Creole.” It sounds like the digital representation of a swamp. Then “Exhilaration” ,”Holiday” , and “In the Groove.” He starts calling the names out fast and I can’t keep up. Time to take another sip off the whiskey jar.


HAWKS ROAD DIARY 7:03 PDT or is it 8:03 in Arizona? July 20, year of ’04
Needles to Kingman
107F, headed NE
A discussion of what to title the Hawks diary:
Arizona border crossing. It seemed different, Arizona. A last palm tree,
And off to the right, deep blue Colorado, a water skier marring or enhancing the blue surface depending on your point of view, and in the distance, red tinged pinnacle mountains, jumbled and spiky. “Further east.
Rest Area 12
Kingman 41
Flagstaff a bit further
Rob offers string cheese to the two Pauls, asks, is this string cheese?
Rob prods Paul M. for road game ideas. So far our only game is bluegrass marathon—who can listen to bluegrass the longest. Paul L. and Rob both boat that they can listen the longest. Paul L. mentions the Quiet Game, played by him and his 8 siblings on family trips? Who can not talk the longest? Rob suggests combining the Quiet Game and the Bluegrass Marathon. One would certainly raise the stakes of the other.
Rob says he wants to put the GMC Yukon into Low4 and see what she does out on a rocky desert road. The Yukon is a sturdy beast, and we have loaded the entire contents of our little four piece unit (Rob, Paul, Paul, Shawn, nice symmetry) into the Yukon, with an aerodynamically sophisticated luggage rack atop. It’s feeling good.


There’s no turning back now. Bags are packed, guitars are racked, truck is filled with gas. Tomorrow we depart for America at noon. Wish us luck, wish us speed, wish us no run-ins with the law.

A hearty farewell and a see you on the road to: Katie, Victoria, Sherri,Colleen, Mom and Mitch, Vic Koler, Paul Dugre, Pete Rosenzweig, Chris Landen, Dave Trumfio, Mark Follman, Gabriel Shephard, Andy Takajian, Carter Stowell and Chani, Lecie Williams, Cody Bryant, Marcus Watkins and Double Naught Spy Car, Richie Lawrence, M. B. Gordy, Rick Shea, Patti Booker, Bubba Hernandez, Bliss, Robert Dean, Ronnie Mack, The Bellyachers, The Believers,
Nearly Beloved, the Lacques clan, Scott, Stefanie, P.J., Dave Alvin, Mike Stinson and Band, Randy Weeks, Gabe and Naano, JLB and Walkie Talkie, Kara and Daniel and all at Amoeba, Kip Boardman and friends, Ben Vaughn, Idaho Falls, Sid Hillman, Gwendolyn, Corrie Gregory and MOM, King Kukulele, Mitch Marine, Sin City, Mars Arizona, Riz, Bill Tapia, Rebekah Florence, Lisa Finnie, Art Fein, Groovy Rednecks, SuperBroke, Dave Royer, The L.A. Weekly, Jonny Whiteside, Gwynne Garfinkle, Dan Janisch, Ed Barguiarena, Michael Simmons, Greg Burk, Ukefink, Sea Level Records, Slobberbone, Lisa Marr, Kaz Murphy, Emory Gordy Jr., Carl Radle, Woody Guthrie, Julian Henslee, Larry Brown, Henry Schipper, Tom Nixon, Barry Smolin, Hollow Log, Alyssa Archambault, Alan Archambault, Ray Doyle, Azalia Snail, Fred and Demolisten, Toe Tappin’Music, Kingsize Maybe, Ben Quinones, Jeff
Miller, The Derailers, Music Without Borders, Zachariah and ESPN, Stew and Heidi, David Gans, Johnny Fargo and Taix, Ali, Alan, and the Cole’s regulars, Ladytown, F.A.R., Dave Rubin, Dave Zirbel, Otono and Los Pochos,Amy Farris, Kathy Orlando, Joe Paquin, Udana Power, Joel Rane, Matt and High or Hellwater, Lisa Richardson, Mike Rings, Stuart Rapaport, Diana Rogers, Jeanna Steele, Handsome Family, Keith Miles, John Palmer, Jeff Winter, Ronnie Mack, Koko and High Tech Auto, Sara Baumann and the Ivy Room, Sweetwater, House Of Blues, Carlos Guitarlos, Scot Ray, Molly Malone’s, Tracy and the Hindenburg Ground Crew, Charlotte and the Tip Jar, Dave Stewart and Zoey’s, Liz Garo, Knitting Factory NYC/LA, Galapagos, Spaceland, Charlie and Beantown, Bob Stane and Coffee Gallery, SXSW, NXNW, NRDC, UCLA, ACLU, Christina Ortega and her band, David and Patrick at Ethic, Ghost Town, Brian Sebastian, Seemore and His Country Paw, Speedboat, Captain Pete, Seppi
the Bird, Ippes, the Crows, Karen and Gregg and Humboldt Green, Rick Cunha, Mother Truckers, Dan Tures, Julie D’Angelo, Claire Chandler, Lucinda Williams, Weba Garretson, Steve Gregoropolis and W.A.C.O., Noam Chomsky, Diane Griggs, Scott and the Fold, Karla and King King, Border Radio, Lowen & Navarro, Chuck Taggart, Mona and Randall, Greg Goad, Peter Kessler, Juliana Parr, Bryson Jones and Sweethearts of the Rodeo, Charles and Angie, The Wedding’s Off, Tony Gilkyson, Some Party, Morley Bartnoff, Kristen Mooney, Richard Cromelin, Paul Kulak, Todd Meehan and Tower, Maxine Waters, Sara Osmer, Eric Gotthelf, The People Of Wonder Valley, Jeff Levy, Jack Blum and the USC Writing Program, Rosie Flores, Ron Goudie, Richard Gehr, the number 43, Claire Holley, Listing Ship, Spain, France, Interstate 5, Highway 162,
Folk Music Center, Village Voice, Michael Berrick and Country Standard Time, LeFrost, Richard Fereirra, Gary Calamar and Open Road, Leigh Ann Hahn,Actuality Productions, certain episodes of Modern Marvels, Campus Circle, early models of the Ford Taurus station wagon, Answer Coalition, Country Bear, Dave Raven, Darrell Larson, Boulevard Music, Greg Daponte, the editorial board of the Logger Post-Intelligencer, Joe Teresa (aka Mr. T), The Gutter Café, Tom Tomorrow, KPFK, KPFA, Amy Goodman, Val Kilmer for his dead on performance as Jim Morrison in Oliver Stone’s The Doors, Cindy Chyr, the Stanley
Brothers, The Louvin Brothers, Jean Bertrand Aristide, Lisa Haley, and David Jackson. See you out there.